Sony cyber shot dsc-873 manual


















Here's a tip that applies to all cameras, not just that one. For flying birds, especially those overhead, set the autofocusing zone at the widest position. If you put it on spot or even center, it is very hard to keep on the bird long enough to grab a focus. After it focuses in the wide zone and you lock it, then center on the bird, before you click the shot.

Yes, very good advice for birds in the sky, over water or in the foreground. It's much trickier if they're near the ground or among trees: a wider focus means that the camera may choose something else to focus on; a narrow focus may mean it struggles to focus at all. With things like hummingbirds I found it best to pre-focus on the feeder. I also like using a slow enough shutter speed for the wings to blur, but not the head:. Hovering Green-crowned Brilliant, Costa Rica. Obviously the aperture is another consideration: if you stop down, there's more chance of the bird looking sharp, but it won't stand out from the background as much.

Not an issue if it's just sky, but more of a problem if the background has details that you want blurred. Time for back button focus. Digital Camera and Adobe Photoshop user since Adobe Lightroom is my adult coloring book. I do this all the time with my RX10M3. Against a blue sky, just set the focus on wide and pull back a bit. I set for the maximum E-shutter burst rate as rolling shutter isn't a huge problem with the RX The tack sharp pictures you see on the internet are usually when the light is extraordinarily bright.

Same settings as above. Very well done, indeed! From the RAW you could probably get out even more:. And one more variation. This time I masked the bird to leave a little more blue in the background. Now the bird pops out even more:. We dig into the detail The Nikon Z mm F2. With a versatile focal length range and a fast aperture for low light photography and blurry backgrounds, this lens promises sharp imagery and smooth bokeh with minimal aberrations.

How does it actually perform? Find out in our full review. If you're looking to speed up your editing workflow, few pieces of hardware can make complex masking, brushing and cloning jobs easier than a digital pen. Not available in store. Select Afterpay as your payment method Use your existing payment card. Complete your checkout in seconds No long forms, instant approval online. Pay over 4 equal payments Pay fortnightly, enjoy your purchase today!

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You'll be eligible for a refund on return shipping costs from your next PayPal purchase. Your refund will appear in your PayPal account, usually within 5 business days. Activate Refunded Returns. Setting the shutter speed and aperture F value. The difference between the value you set and the proper exposure judged by the camera appears as a metered manual MM value on the screen.

You can shoot trails with long exposure. Functions not available in some REC modes. Still shooting menu items not available in some REC modes. Back to top. I also felt like I was running out of functions to assign to buttons, whereas on the A I'm always a button or two short.

I like to carry my cameras with a wrist strap in my right hand, and the A's shallow grip invariably leads to hand cramps when mounting a large lens. With the ample dimensions of the RX10, I could walk around all day without grip fatigue. Special mention should be made of the Zoom Assist feature in the RX10IV, which allows you to map a button to the act of rapidly zooming out to a wider angle, highlighting the target field of view , and snapping back when released. This allows you to quickly "back up" and reposition on a bird or critter without manual operation of the zoom controls.

Yet another reaction from the RX10IV was less pleasant: the older camera often felt clunky. Most of this was due to working around the power zoom. While I'm used to a zoom switch from the RXVI, it's never as responsive or precise as a manual zoom ring. Whereas I can boot up my A ready to go at a particular focal length, the RX10IV requires a lengthy initial lens extension and then further manipulation to reach the desired focal length.

The power zoom ring around the lens is sloppy no matter which speed setting you choose, and I found myself avoiding it at all costs. Long lenses are great for social distancing, and I conscripted a friend for impromptu modeling sessions using each rental.

Having to map and hold an eye-AF button for continuous eye-AF felt like a frustrating regression from seamless acquisition of eyes.

Moving to other subjects, the RX10's less robust tracking meant that I had to actually fiddle with repositioning the AF point from time to time instead of focus-recomposing in AF-C e. The RX10IV did nothing to dissuade me from this impression with its optically impressive lens, and I find myself giving the RX10IV an edge at maximum aperture and zoom for wildlife under the sun.

Once I moved into the shadows, the A combination took the lead. Despite the mm G being 2. But here are some pictures demonstrating the A's proficiency at higher ISOs especially as these images also feature an element of shadow recovery.

If you move from the mm G to other lenses, the A picks up a truly insurmountable lead in low light by allowing for the use of F1. I enjoy using prime lenses for handheld nighttime and indoor shooting that would be unacceptable with a F2.

Autofocus is clearly in favor of the A combination; I found that I had a higher hit rate on similar subjects with the newer camera. In fact, I ran into perplexing situations where the RX10IV would occasionally burst in and out of focus on a grounded bird with ample light, fast shutter speeds, and small flexible spot planted directly on the feathered friend.

Note that I was not testing birds in flight, so I cannot comment on the relative strength of either solution for that scenario. This header covers some of the miscellaneous technological differences in these two tested configurations. I was astounded at how many wildlife images I could squeeze off on the RX10 and how quickly I could get back to shooting. The A also shoots at 11FPS compared to a blistering 24FPS on its older brother, with that slower readout also apparent from significant rolling shutter in stills and video.

System Considerations. Moving beyond the two specific combinations above, let's zoom out to the broader use considerations of each body. Both cameras take different approaches to versatility: the RX10IV maximizes the flexibility of a single configuration while the A allows a user to specialize further for various types of shooting with additional lens investments.

The killer feature of the of RX10IV is its focal length versatility with a fixed-lens. You can toggle from wildlife at mm equivalent to a landscape at 24mm equivalent and back with just a few seconds on the zoom switch. No frustrating lens swaps; no sensor dust; no rocket blower. This is enough reason to purchase an RX10IV for anyone who travels with an impatient spouse, as you never again have to worry about fumbling lenses to the beat of a tapping foot.

I definitely could have use the RX10IV in Iceland last year, as beautiful scenery and quirky wildlife vied for my attention during inclement weather and could definitely see myself renting this camera for future trips. On the other hand, the A lets you engage in types of photography that are unfavorable or downright impossible on the RX10IV:. You can do many kinds of photography better with an ILC system, though it will come at additional investment.

Which leads us to another differentiating factor between these options: cost. And when you factor in the broad reach of the system: mm equivalent, it's a downright bargain. The lack of lens options - while restricting possibilities - also would force you to really learn with what you have instead of pining for yet another lens. That said, there are cheaper "do-it-all" Sony setups if you don't need the widest and furthest reaches of the RX10IV's lens.

Yet it covers a very diverse range of focal lengths in a single package that fits around your neck or in your hand. With my A I find myself generally carrying the camera with one lens while keeping a spare lens or two in a small bag on my back. That said, the A allows you to cut down your camera dimensions to a svelte size by equipping smaller specialized lenses. I'm comfortable sneaking the A and a small lens into dense crowds or formal venues where the RX10IV might be frustrating or draw attention, and I could see myself leaving the larger unit in a hotel room more often due to its bulk.

If you've read this far you should realize that both camera systems are excellent options that differ more in their overall approach than in their level of quality. The RX10IV is a capable do-it-all platform while the A with the mm lens or otherwise allows you to spend more for specialized photographic outcomes. While my original wildlife foray is on hold with the current economic and employment uncertainty, I would happily adapt to either the RX10IV or mm G as a wildlife option.

The Cybershot would simplify packing and adapting to varied subjects, while the mm G would be a far cheaper addition to my current body. I also need to test the MC and Sigma mm C combination, as it falls in a similar price bracket. I enjoy being able to delve deeper into specific types of photography with specialized lenses, but the RX10IV would put an end to Gear Acquisition Syndrome and net me at least a thousand dollars before considering wildlife telephoto capability.



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